At Milan Fashion Week, models strutted in Prada's new line of open-toe leather sandals.
But thousands of kilometres away in India, the show was met with disbelief.
"Call it 'couture' all you want, but India did it first, and better.
"Never thought my dad's sandals would make it to a runway show.
"They're making money off the very things we were shamed for."
Hundreds of mocking comments were left on social media posts about the luxury brand's sandals.
All pointed out that they suspiciously resembled the Kolhapuri chappal — a handcrafted Indian sandal native to Kolhapur, a city in the west Indian state of Maharashtra.
Can a design 'belong' to anyone?
In 2019, India's government officially recognised Kolhapuri chappals as being first made in the city of Kolhapur.
"This tag formally recognises their unique cultural heritage and links them to a specific region," said Arshiya Kapoor, associate professor in fashion design and marketing at India's MIT Institute of Design.
"It reinforces that this design belongs to the local artisan communities who have preserved the craft for generations."
Dr Kapoor said Prada's sandal design was "a clear case of cultural appropriation".
"The design elements, construction, and overall aesthetic have been lifted almost entirely from this footwear style and directly applied on the Prada's new sandal," she told the ABC.
"They are a luxury brand profiting from a traditional Indian craft without acknowledgement, credit, or collaboration with the communities who originated it."
Prada's sandals are reportedly priced at $1,200 a pair.
By contrast, the authentic Kolhapuri sandals can be found in Indian markets for as little as $10.
Dr Kapoor said the deeper issue lies in taking away economic opportunities and recognition from artisans who have perfected and preserved their craft over generations.
"These skilled makers rely on their designs for their livelihood," she said.
"When global brands replicate their work without offering monetary compensation or partnerships, it undermines their sustainability and growth."
Prada responds to controversy
The online furore extended to artisans and even politicians in India.
Member of India's ruling Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) Dhananjay Mahadik led a delegation of artisans who craft this traditional footwear.
Mr Mahadik said he presented a letter to the Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis, urging the state to act against what they deemed was cultural and commercial appropriation.
"We want Prada to give the Kolhapuri identity to their product, and local artisans should get the revenue," he told Indian media.
"If Prada gives us orders, we can manufacture for them. The Kolhapuri brand will reach globally."
The Maharashtra chamber of commerce wrote to Prada chairperson Patrizio Bertelli about the concerns of sandal makers.
Two days later, the Italian fashion juggernaut responded.
It acknowledged the sandal's design was inspired by the centuries-old Indian sandals.
"We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship," Prada said in a statement.
"Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design development, and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialised."
Prada said it remained "committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities".
Punar is a start-up that sells ethical fashion textiles that are handmade in India.
Its founder Priya Ravindra told the ABC that Prada's sandals were an example of "exploiting South Asian heritage for profit while sidelining its creators".
"With ample resources, luxury brands like Prada have no excuse for delayed acknowledgement," she said.
"It must happen up-front, not following global social media outrage."
Since launching her business, Ms Ravindra has upskilled and created jobs for more than a dozen female artisans in India.
She advocates for mandatory cultural origin labelling and direct partnerships with artisans.
"We know that EU regulations mandate strict origin labelling for European products, yet no global framework protects South Asian crafts," she said.
Is acknowledgement enough?
Prada's response was "surface level", according to Dr Kapoor.
"It does nothing to benefit the artisan or the community whose craft is being used," she said.
"Kolhapuri Chappals are made by artisan communities, often from marginalised backgrounds, who rely on this work for their livelihood."
According to a 2017 report by the Indian Ministry of Textiles, India has over 7 million artisans — with a significant portion involved in traditional footwear production.
But Dr Kapoor said many struggle with low incomes, lack of market access and declining recognition in "an increasingly commercialised design world".
"If the brand truly values the heritage it draws from, it must go beyond imitation," she said.
"It should collaborate directly with the artisans, offer them opportunities for production and ensure fair economic benefit."
